It’s once again a ready-to-wear bi-annual fashion week in Mumbai jointly held by the Fashion Design Council of India and Lakme Fashion Week at the magnificent Jio World Convention Centre. Emerging talents alongside established designers are going to showcase their collections over the week on the ramp. Designers have taken the liberty to showcase pret-a-porter fashion and occasional wear or demi-couture.
Anamika Khanna: AK-OK
THE FDCI X LFW October 2022 season kicked off with Anamika Khanna’s Ak-Ok Pret label. The collection was very fashion-forward with silhouettes having a very ‘loungewear’ feel with a grunge look. Pristine white Kurta shirts were beautiful. Paired with flared pyjamas and layered with jackets, the white sequence was a personal favorite. Anamika has taken to the distressed look with passion. The tattered or ripped treatment of the coordinates is very modern. Corsages were used rather elaborately. 3-D floral embroidery adorned alongside Shibori tie-dye and abstract prints made the joggers, pant-suits, palazzos, dresses, bombers, and jackets have an uplifted athleisure feel. The juxtaposition of drape and structure in Ak-Ok was something we observed in Anamika Khanna’s couture collection. Denim is in vogue and we find enough use of textured denim in the collection.
Emerging Talent
Every fashion week FDCI scouts emerging talent and provides them with the platform to grow and flourish. For the current season, FDCI presented three talents for a Men’s Edit collection. Khanijo by Gaurav Khanijo, Countrymade by Sushant Abrol, and Son of a Noble SNOB by Mani Shanker Singh and Ritu Jain presented some fashionable pieces that are sure to become a staple.
Gaurav Khanijo: Khanijo
Gaurav created the entire collection using upcycled fabrics and dead-stock piled up in his studio. The collection was all in shades of grey and black and had a worn-out feel to them. The long angrakha style kurta, tunics paired with pants bearing cut-out detailing, soft-textured deconstructed jackets and jumpsuits were some very comfy menswear that reflected the essence of Gaurav’s versatility and flair.
Sushant Abrol: Countrymade
Sushant Abrol’s collection had breathtakingly striking monochrome fits. The airy long shirts and shirt-jackets in earthy hues and blacks and greys with fitted bottoms in the perfect combo are very in vogue and highlight a very unique contemporary facet of the brand.
The denim jackets paired with similarly toned denim bottoms with stitch-detailing and striped suits in twill were eye-grabbing. The military-inspired look of Sushant was crafted using blends of linen, cotton, denim and twill. These sharp silhouettes are very quintessential of Sushant Abrol’s designs and present a chic and debonair persona.
Mani Shankar Singh & Ritu Jain: SNOB
Son of a Noble SNOB, a label by Mani Shankar singh and Ritu Jain has its design aesthetics grounded in the concept of minimalism. The autumn/winter 2022 collection was predominantly in earthy tones stitched out in pure linen.
SNOB also took monochromatic separates – top and bottom in the same colour. Long unlined jackets were thrown over monotone shirts, and trousers looked dapper. Safari jackets with multi-pockets, asymmetric cuts and geometric prints gave the look a very sporty feel.
Shalini & Paras: Geisha Designs
Shalini and Paras of Geisha Designs showcased a gorgeous collection of occasional wear consisting of cocktail dresses and evening gowns in its ultra-feminine best in their collection titled “Luminescent”.
The collection was reflective of red-carpet glamour. There were one-shoulder gowns; tiered with thigh-high slits, all embellished with 3-dimensional huge corsages, and glittering Swarovski crystals, enhanced by cording and knotting techniques. The silver jacket paired with a silver mini that extended into tassels of shimmering silver cords looked overtly glamorous. Even the black corsage dress with a sheer skirt and knotted tassels looked sensual and enticing, and raised the bars on Day 1 of the extravagant week.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Lakme Fashion Week, FDCI, Shalini and Paras, Mani Shankar Singh and Ritu Jain, Sushant Abrol, Gaurav Khanijo, and Anamika Khanna.
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