GAURAV GUPTA’S ‘AAROHANAM’ COUTURE COLLECTION — PARIS COUTURE WEEK, SPRING 2024

The Paris Haute Couture Week, Spring 2024 that closed on the 25th of January 2024 in Paris showcased a return to wearable couture than couture that is over-the-top and surreal. Indian couturier, Gaurav Gupta also showcased his couture collection titled, ‘Aarohanam’ on the final day of the Paris Couture Week. As the title suggests, Gaurav’s collection showcased a journey ‘from solid to sublime, from darkness to light’.

As explained by Gaurav Gupta, “Aarohanam is ascension. A Sanskrit word that has a deep spiritual significance marking the journey of a being from the gross to the subtle, from solid to sublime, from darkness to light. This phenomenon inspires the collection. It portrays elevation from reason to innocence, letting go of every construct to become one with the natural design of existence. It is reflective of the concept of kundalini — the coiled snake that rests dormant at the base of our spines till it is awakened by the power of deep meditation and intent. That is when the curtain of illusion lifts, the chakras open and the flame ignites.”

Gaurav Gupta ‘Aarohanam’ at Paris Couture Week, Spring 2024

The collections’ color palette of absolute black, orange, reflective sand, and ether blue, mirrors the nuanced stages of this transformative passage and embodies the surrealism found in ancient Indian texts like the Vedas.
The silhouettes of Gaurav Gupta’s Spring 2024 couture collection meandered through his signature sculpting art, gracefully played with volume, echoing the flickering dance of a flame. Cropped jackets, exaggerated capes, fluid trench coats, or sculpted metal structures, like the molded gold breastplates with black skirts and voluminous gowns that had swirls and were sculpted to depict the dancing flames, were absolutely a treat to watch.
Mukaish, Badla and Zari work enhanced the fine embellishment on perfectly tailored and draped ensembles. Three-dimensional embroidery and crystal embellishments created a multidimensional and luminescent effect on the beautiful ensembles. My personal favorites were the fluid trench coats with beautiful embroidery and the sculpted silhouettes seemed like beautiful textiles catching the breeze.