As we see more and more shows we discover the varying moods that are diametrically opposite to one another that works behind creation of a collection. But essentially the designers are looking ahead with optimism, at times borrowing from the past and at times peeking into the future.
S & N by Shantanu and Nikhil showcased ’The Declaration 2034’, a collection designed for a futuristic Utopian world. As per the designer duo – “The collection transports you to an almost utopian world where gender fluidity, equality, right to privacy and evolved consciousness become the basic fundamental rights.”
The collection is dominated by military influence and is a parade of uniforms that bore bold insignias, epaulettes and esoteric detailing borrowed from our heritage to give us a glimpse of a new world with a new power structure.
Ashish Soni has kept his design philosophy intact even at these times, which is all about well constructed designs with minimal feel. The detailing mostly is invested in cuts and patterns that are edgy at times. For this collection I loved the double—greased suit instead of Double Breasted Suit where the jacket is cinched at the waist and paired with flared bottoms. The men’s jackets had edgy cuts and patterns and were paired over asymmetrical long shirts with pants tucked in socks. Enjoyed the hoodies with craft messages and prints too.
Geisha by Paras and Shalini presented their collection ‘Bloom in Love’ for spring/summer 2021. It was a happy collection with floral embellishment spread over beautifully styled ensembles. “Through this collection, we wish to unfurl the very basics of life, that is, ‘enjoying it’, “ stated the designer duo. The garments were flowy and breezy and ornate cholis were beautifully paired with intricately textured and printed lehengas in hues that were fresh on the fashion palette.
Samant Chauhan found his fashion E-zone on the shoulders as his collection was largely styled off-shoulder or as the designer phrases it – ‘cold-shoulder’. Plunging necklines were another eye-grabbing feature. Samant says, “The collection is an ode to the colours . Colours of reimagining a world in memory.” He also used silver and metallic embroidery on his signature silks.
Virtues showcased an enigmatic look where ancient handloom technique of Mashru comprising vibrant colours sparkled on the sleeves and necklines of otherwise monochromatic ensembles. The designer duo also used mirror work and thread work from Kutch and digital prints from the treasure trove of Raja Ravi Verma’s prints in their ‘Indian High’ collection that was definitely out-of—the-box in terms of detailing.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Ashish Soni, Shantanu & Nikhil, Geisha, Samant Chauhan, and Virtues
Find out more about the Artist and Gallery:
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https://www.instagram.com/varunbahlcouture/?hl=en
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