The experts are calling the COVID-19 Pandemic the biggest ever global crisis; bigger even than World War II. The way we live and work has already changed and once we tide over the pandemic, how will things look? Although on an optimistic note, it is the dark times that spur poets to pen the most beautiful poetry, the painters to create classic masterpieces and designers to craft the most ingenious creations.
Just like all aspects of life the fashion industry too took a big hit because of the Corona epidemic. The fashion weeks got canceled. Most luxury labels are canceling their Cruise 2021 collections. The much-awaited MET GALA got called off and most importantly, China, which is the hub of production of the bulk of fashion products, caused supply chain abruption.
Maison Margiela’s FW 2018 look was prophetic
In India, the fashion designers are in crisis too. The ongoing 21-day lockdown has made them shut the factories and the retail outlets are shut too. Most factories were manned by immigrant workers who are now making an exodus and may not be back. The fall/winter 2020 India Fashion Week got called off when designers were all ready with their collections. The Couture Week scheduled for late July 2020 needs to be rescheduled.
Front row in masks at Paris Fashion Week
We spoke to designers about how the COVID-19 will influence their creations. Will it turn somber or in revolt take to maximal OTT look? During the Second World War,most of the women’s fashions were designed with squared shoulders, small waist, and skirt above the knee. Do-it-yourself home fashions were encouraged, and women were educated on how to conserve material or update older dresses to the latest fashions. Again, these fashions reflected the style of utility clothes. Rationing of materials in order to supply for war led to rising of hemlines. Utility jumpsuits came into fashion as women stepped out to work as men went to war. Women wore pants and Katherine Hepburn in trousers became an epic look.
Most Indian designers feel that when they create their new look, Corona will be in their subconscious but deny that they will go for a face mask as the ‘It Accessory’ or the Hijab look. Rahul Khanna says, if Hijab would have stopped Corona from spreading, there wouldn’t be so many cases in Iran and Pakistan. Sunil Sethi, the Chairman of FDCI feels incorporating face masks in fashion are marketing gimmicks. Rajesh Pratap Singh feels that natural fabrics will become more trendy and somehow feels the color ‘Blue’ will find favor with many designers. Silhouettes would definitely be more covering and away from the body. But he also feels that the Corona-effect will fade away as fashion is eventually also about celebration. Ashish Soni agrees that after the lull, which may be painful and longish, fashion will return to rejoicing the body, the figure, and life in general.
Just like Christian Dior broke-away from the World War-II ‘Wartime Crinolines’ in 1947 to a new style that embraced femininity, with rounded shoulders, shapely bust lines, nipped waistlines, slightly padded skirts, and full, billowing skirts that hung just below the calves.
Right-now Indian fashion is going through tough times. But as they say, when the going gets tough, the tough get going and so will our Indian designers.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Find out more about the artists and galleries:
www.time.com/5794928/coronavirus-fashion-economy
www.ashishnsoni.in/about/designer-profile
www.biography.com/actor/katharine-hepburn
www.vice.com/en_in/article/evyejj/why-muslim-fashion-is-taking-over-the-luxury-world
www.lvmh.com/houses/fashion-leather-goods/christian-dior
www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-history/1940s-1950s
www.ladyjojosboutique.wordpress.com/2011/07/13/christian-diors-new-look-of-the-1940s-and-1950s
