ALL THE BLING AT INDIA COUTURE WEEK PART III

In India, a plethora of designers have tried their hand at experimenting with embroidery. We have styles of varied forms and very often top couture labels outsource the embroidery work to the master craftsmen of India. Hand embroidery is a craft passed down to generations, and the value intricate hand-embroidery adds to an ensemble can never be compared with machine embroidery.

So it goes without saying that embroidery is very integral to Indian fashion, and when it comes to couture, a creation devoid of hand-embroidery is almost unthinkable.

Anju Modi: The Road Less Travelled

Anju Modi’s forte has been using the traditional handlooms and crafts to create classic yet striking designs that are essential in a bride’s wardrobe. Her knowledge of craft had got her an illustrious project of designing costumes for Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s magnum opus, Ram-Leela.

At the India Couture Week 2022, Anju challenged herself to create ensembles that were unexpectedly resplendent. It was a serene collection with beautiful handlooms and traditional embroidery. She used the kerchief fold and asymmetric hemline to the hilt, and the bold-hued dupattas over muted shades of lehengas which were really a feather in the cap. The layering of jackets and capes was an interesting element at the show.

Beautiful floral embroidery placed strategically on the garments, embroidered borders, and tonal embroidery on men’s achkans were highlights of the collection. Pearls and beads were used amply for ornate embroidery on mulmul, silk and velvet.

Dolly J: Meraki

Designer Dolly J’s couture 2022 collection is eponymous with ensembles full of glitter and shine. There were shimmering sarees, lehengas with cholis that fitted splendidly like a corset, with a faux-fur throw and ruffled trains.

We saw plenty of Cinderella gowns, bustier gowns sprinkled with crystals, and furry trims that accentuated the sensual look collectively.

Pastel colours dominated the sequence of gowns while reds were used for the traditional bridal wear line. Scalloped dupattas, embroidered waistbands, angel sleeves with tassels and hourglass gowns with pockets were a refreshing treat in Dolly J’s couture collection this summer.

Suneet Varma: Sitara

Suneet Varma’s collection was extremely ornate with very intricate embroidery and a lot of sparkle. His collection had bejewelled sarees, shararas and lehengas. The cholis and blouses had deep necklines and varied styles. The crystal embroidered sarees paired with strappy blouses, and shararas with jackets instead of kurtis, were an interesting change to witness in the starry collection that had varied hues from bejewelled red tones to powder blues, greys and dual-toned pinks. Metallic and silver thread embroidery stood out in contrast to the solid colour ensembles.

Cholis crafted out of beaded pearls used as tassels, sharara with a sheer-sleeved jacket and ornate collar, full-sleeved cholis with cutwork necklines, and asymmetric halter-neck blouses paired with sarees were some extraordinary creations seen at Varma’s show. He used sheer net, juxtaposed with heavy embroidery for blouses and cholis to create an uber seductive look.