For the past four months, the global pandemic we’ve been living in has been disrupting our daily lives, forcing industries to re-invent their plans for the year. Amongst them, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode decided to schedule its usual Haute Couture Week digitally, on an exclusive online platform.
Schiaparelli’s nostalgic surrealism met unrealism
Elsa Schiaparelli kicked-off the week with an unusual behind-the-scenes video starring its Creative Director, Daniel Roseberry who, after taking a quick trip back to the US, found himself stuck in isolation. “Everyone has their own lockdown story, some harrowing, some tragic, some utterly lonely. The luckiest of us have been able to spend this time in nature, far removed from city life. My own experience was shared with millions of other Manhattanites: It was privileged, but nothing extraordinary. What was extraordinary, however, was the ability to walk into Washington Square Park on a Monday morning and sketch out an entire Couture collection,” explained the designer.
Glimpses of reds, pinks, and blues mix with structured silhouettes, feminine décolletés, and delicate shapes that appeared in a series of nostalgic sketches, reminiscent of Schiaparelli’s trait for surrealism. “Everything has changed, but imagination, and the drive to create, has never been more relevant, or more profound,” said Roseberry.
Iris Van Herpen presented ‘Transmotion’
Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen is perhaps known for her ability to merge technological innovation and artisanal handiwork. No wonder her work for ‘Game of Thrones’ became iconic.
In preparation for her show in January, this season Van Herpen decided to present only one look. “The concept of creation stems from the notion of growth and regeneration. The seemingly simple seed is the embodiment of life and the potential that comes with it. A seed embedded upside down in dirt still sees the seedling growing the right way up. Motion and fluidity involved in the formation of tessellations highlight the capacity to shift between negatives and positives,” said the designer.
Filmed by director Ryan McDaniels, the video, titled ‘Transmotion,’ starred Game of Thrones actress Carice Van Houten wearing a diaphanous white gown in silk organza.
The translucent layers of pleats constructed to look like petals revealed crystalline filaments sprouting from the heart of the dress. Black branches of duchess satin were laser-cut, hand-stitched, and form the central roots of the garment.
Dior presented ‘Le Mythe Dior’
Maria Grazia Chiuri presented a film – ‘Le Mythe Dior’, which detailed the journey of a magical trunk through a land full of mermaids, wood nymphs, fairies, and statues. Diaphanous was the word to describe the collection. The collection was compiled with embroidered tulle, pleated chiffon, and meticulously patch-worked pastel laces.
“This collection was conceived during the lockdown. Therefore we knew we wouldn’t be able to do a show, so it was immediately clear to me that my references would be tied to the dream and fantasy world,” explained Maria Grazia Chiuri in an official video on the brand’s Instagram detailing how her ideas crystallized during the lockdown, the importance of savoir-faire, and the influence of female surrealist artists
Ralph & Russo Introduced Nature as a State of Mind
Taking inspiration from life itself, Tamara Ralph took us into Ralph & Russo Couture Collection 2020/2021, where nature, travel, art, and architecture play as the main characters of this year’s dreamlike collection. The collection celebrated the Seven Wonders of the World.
The collection’s ethereal designs and pastel color palettes are proof that traveling with the mind in some of the most special places of the world is still possible. The collection is about voluminous, floor-sweeping gowns in pink shades embellished with jewelry details, feathers, and tulle. Flowers are a consistent theme in the whole collection, featuring hair accessories or being part of the clothing embroidery.
Giambattista Valli’s Couture Collection Bloomed
One of the most established names in the fashion scene, and recurrent presence of Paris Fashion Week, Giambattista Valli introduced this year’s Haute Couture Digital Showcase through black and white footage of Paris, accompanied by the harmonious sound of a piano. The scene is split in two, revealing the first opening dress – an elegant strapless red gown designed with exuberant bows and a floor-length train, and views of Paris.
Nature was interpreted taking its course through images of frosted leaves and tiny bugs hanging on the window. Maxi floaty dresses with exaggerated volumes, big silky bows, and ruched tulle established the glamour and sophistication of Valli. The collection celebrated the beauty of the outside world that hasn’t stopped blooming.
Text By Jaydeep Ghosh
Images Courtesy: Elsa Schiaparelli , Iris Van Herpen, Dior, Ralph & Russo and Giambattista Valli.
Find out more about the Artists and Gallery:
https://www.schiaparelli.com/en
https://www.instagram.com/danielroseberry/?hl=en
https://www.irisvanherpen.com/
https://www.instagram.com/leavecaricealone/?hl=en
https://www.instagram.com/mariagraziachiuri/
