In the fashion capitals of Milan and Paris, after a year and a half of pandemic fashion, sales are soaring as people are starting to dress up again. What are they going for? The answer is simple -‘Happy, colorful fashion.’ And judging by Resort 2022, the message is loud and clear.
Maria Grazia Chiuri presented her Dior Cruise collection at the Panathenaic Stadium, where Ancient Greeks showed off their athletic capabilities circa 330 BC while Virginie Viard took her graphic Chanel cruise collection to Provence, a beautiful region in the south of France.
Cruise/Resort collections were initially created for affluent customers going on cruises or vacationing in the warm Mediterranean during the winter months. While the idea of cruisewear sounds old fashioned and elitist, today’s fashion designers use Resort collection to bridge between the biannual summer and winter collections and throw in all those creative looks they ideally couldn’t show in the seasonal shows. Savvy customers view the season as a chance to spruce up their wardrobes.
At the Resort shows from Dior to Versace to Louis Vuitton, one thing stood out and that was the designers wanted the fashionistas to dress-it-up. Athleisure stayed on but in a more luxurious form but dresses remain a must-have for the summer season. Simple to wear, easy to combine and flattering for every body, the resort 2022 shows continued this mixed-up sense of the season, offering a diverse and unpredictable array of trends. In the current moment, unsure of re-emergence but ready to dress up again does indeed feel in step. Here’s what seems to be trending:
Logomania
Designer logos are everywhere this resort season, from Gucci’s double G splattered all over suits, outerwear, and accessories, to a more subtle Versace Greek Key logo on dresses, tops and headscarves; one thing is for sure, you will definitely be noticed in these bold looks.
Bold Shoulder
We spotted super-sized collars in the resort collections but the focus of top-half dressing is moving out, to your shoulders. Whether an elegant curve, a sweet puff or a sci-fi-costume statement, adding a bold shoulder detail to any outfit will add an instant update to your look.
This trend prevailed at Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini.
The collections started playing with fringes on jackets, trousers and accessories alike and for next summer, they will adorn dresses. They will come in a variety of fabrics, from thick leather to lighter materials such as feathers or yarns. Chanel presented several 1920’s-inspired black dresses finished with feather fringes, Chloé opted for prints and knitted details and Dior showcased a gold metallic midi-dress with a long fringed hem.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior collections had plenty of goddess-style silhouettes, and many other brands followed suit too. Whether it is draped versions or flowy styles, Greek-inspired dresses will be around for Spring Summer 2022 (SS22). Their fluidity makes them uncomplicated and easy going while still making you look put-together. Short hems for day or long hems for nights, the options are endless. A Grecian drape cinched version dress was seen at Alberta Ferretti and Elie Saab played with sheerness and extra-long cuts.
The short hemlines might always be a womenswear staple, but it’ll be especially present for the SS22 season. Enough of an ‘above-the-keyboard’ look. Now it’s time to show-off your legs! Short hemlines have been introduced in a large array of collections that can be dressed up with bold details. Blumarine introduced a neon pink number featuring a butterfly print, Chanel made sheer logo-printed versions and Etro showcased a tiered version sporting one of the brand’s signature prints.
The Party Outfit
Now that the world is out and about again, so are the trends. Plenty of party attires and over-the-top styles were on the runway, making a statement with vibrant colours, exaggerated ruffles and shiny fabrics. The idea is to shift from easy silhouettes to eye-catching ones and celebrate fashion. N°21 showed a neon-green sequin mini dress while Carolina Herrera opted for an all-over floral print. On the other hand, Oscar de la Renta presented green and purple solid styles detailed with oversized bows.
If you thought your bandage outfit by Herve Leger is passe’, they aren’t!
Body-conscious cuts that skim your shape come in juicy colours, with cut-out details or ruched details ideal for going out. Reminiscing the 90s, the bodycon dress is making a comeback, this time a tad more dressier and elegant. The style plays with sexiness with a contemporary take. Think knitted fabrics for a comfortable and paired-back effect or ruched details that can be worn both for a day or night out. Balmain’s tan version was structured while Lapointe’s came in an extra-long cotton-jersey striped style. At Versace the bright hues met shiny fabrics for an eye-catching effect.
We’ve seen cutout tops and other details slinking the runway over the last year, and for the coming season, dresses will sport the trend too. Whether it’s a subtle suggestion with teardrop holes or slashes that reveal more, cutout details will show some skin for the next summer season. Alaïa’s Resort 2022 collection presented a glitzy halter top dress with slight cutouts at the belly, Paco Rabbane showcased a symmetrical printed version and Givenchy played with zippers and a mix of fabrics for a fabulous silhouette.
After last summer’s bustiers and corsets, the slip dress is making a come-back. It’s simple, lingerie-inspired style makes for an elegant and sophisticated look. Pair it with bold and chunky accessories for a day-time look. Slip dress embroidered with colourful details at Ermanno Scervino and one in a leopard print and maxi length at Brandon Maxwell simply rocked.
Legions of camouflage, utility pockets, and olive drab marched their way into the resort season, but this time with a chic and refined twist. Military look is evergreen and ever sexy.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Brandon Maxwell, Versace, Etro, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Balmain, Alastair Nicol
Find more about the Brands:
https://brandonmaxwellstudio.com/
https://www.pacorabanne.com/ww/en
https://www.dior.com/en_int/womens-fashion/cruise-2020-2021-collection
