There’s nothing more sensuous and resplendent as a Benarasi. Amalgamating rich textile heritage with gracious glamour, a Benarasi is an all-time classic. The scope and spectrum of weaving techniques within the Benarasi school of weave create a plethora of styles that stand the test of time. The buzz around Benarasi comes at a time when women are opening up to the idea of investing in sarees. Today, brides want to wear a beautiful Benarasi, which has a story behind it.
Here we are featuring fashion and textile designers, both established and new in the trade who are doing commendable work with Benarasi weave.
WARP ‘N’ WEFT BY SAGARIKA RAI
Founded in 1997 by Sagrika Rai, ‘Warp ‘n’ Weft’ shares the magic of an illustrious lineage of handloom artistry from Banaras. “The Banarasi is a fabric of provenance. It’s wearing your textile heritage on your sleeve”, states Sagrika. Ever since its inception, ‘Warp ‘n’ Weft’ has been the brand synonymous with Benarasi weaves. They’re known for their sustainable processes as well as conserving handloom traditions and it’s safe to say, each and every one of their pieces is a labour of love and are meticulously handwoven.
Rai learnt the craft from her mother, who would sit with the karigars and explore new designs. This sparked the first seeds of passion in the designer. The brand has been working with the same family of craftspersons they started with, and have only expanded their numbers over the years. Now Sagrika’s daughter Gauri has joined her and she is bringing in a new wave of communication and marketing strategy for the two-and-half-decade-old brand.
She adds, “Warp ‘n’ Weft stands for Benares in its purest form. In my span of 25 years, I cannot remember a moment where there was even the slightest temptation to gravitate towards the power loom, or bringing in any power loom fabrics just because I could make easy money there. That was never the objective, and neither is it today. For that I stand very tall.”
Sagrika Rai is of the opinion that Benarasi never needed a revival. People and mindsets needed revival. She however is optimistic about the movements she senses in Banaras, as people flocking, dipping into the treasure trove- Benarasi Textiles, improves the scope for business. It encourages and reassures more and more weavers in the coming generation of wavers’ families.
When asked about Warp n’ Weft’s style ethos, Sagrika has a tagline to utter – ‘Banarasi-pana’. She says, “I want to be known for: Banarasi in its absolute banarsi-pana. Not a Banarasi that looks bohemian. I want customers to wear Banarasi in all its grandeur.”
‘Warp ‘n’ Weft’ is a boutique tucked away in South Mumbai, which is a home to an array of beautiful unique and now very rare pieces of our history. If you want to add a Benarasi to your collection then this is the perfect place for you.
KSHITIJ JALORI
If Sagrika Rai has been wedded to the charm of Benarasi for the past two-and-half-decades, Khitij launched his label three-years ago. He plans to reinvent the Indian weave and shake up the jaded opinions around it. He has cultivated a minimal yet sophisticated style while having worked with the likes of Sabyasachi, Péro and Shades of India, going on to open his eponymic design studio in 2016.
His passion for textiles was rekindled when he worked with textile doyen Rita Kapur Chisti for a year for the Vishwakarma Exhibition. It’s there where he discovered the nuances of the yarn, the density of the fabric and the structure of the textiles to tailor a perfect garment.
Kshitij too doesn’t believe that the Benarasi weave is going through revival. He says, “I’m not trying to revive anything because to revive something, it has to be lost or extinct. Our generation is still lucky that all that skill and heritage hasn’t been completely lost. What I am doing is trying to preserve the existing skill set and enhance it further.” He is known for his brocade work on Pashmina yarn and suggests that the looms of Benaras are technically advanced and the weavers are adaptive to newer nuances.
Kshitij Jalori loves to push the boundaries. His brocade swimsuit created quite a flutter. He says, “It was not a functional swimsuit that I created but several clients picked it up because they wanted to sun bathe in a brocade swimsuit.” Jalori uses brocades on pantsuits and jackets and explains, “Brocades need not be limited to wedding lehengas and kurtas, we could also wear them in the form of suits and jackets.”
From creating statement brocade power-suits to versatile and classic Banarasi sarees, Kshitij is one of those textile designers who constantly pushes the envelope to stay relevant but also stays deeply rooted to his Indian roots.
The fall/winter 2021 collection of Kshitij Jalori is christened – ‘Saigon Central’ and heavily influenced by the works of artists like Henri Matisse, Jamini Roy and Rousseau. “In Saigon Central there is a print called Malagasy that is a tropical take on how Henri Rousseau would have painted a tropical artwork. Another artist we have tried to incorporate in Saigon Central is Henri Matisse. He had a linear, abstract but expressionist sort of take. In India, we have Jamini Roy who I really like… very interesting use of striking lines and colours”, explains Jalori.
KASTURI KUNDAL BY REENA KATIYAR
Reena Katiyar who hails from Raipur, Chhattisgarh created a prestigious label known for Benarasi weaves without any formal training in fashion or textile. Fascinated by the annals and antiquities of the world, Reena Katiyar launched the saree label Kasturi Kundal in 2019. Her creations capture the cultural traditions in their purest forms. “I sincerely believe that it takes centuries to form a civilisation. So much is created yet so much is lost, sometimes unknowingly and at times carelessly. I endeavour along with my team to preserve, nurture and carry forward our rich handloom traditions,” shares Reena.
“Since both my father and husband have transferable jobs, I have had the opportunity to explore various forms of indigenous art across the States of India and my passion for art eventually resulted in Kasturi Kundal,” she adds.
The core philosophy of this Raipur based brand is to carry forward the different age-old traditions of hand weaving and handcrafting and offer patrons authentic weaves in a variety of designs.
Ardently believing in a slow and timeless fashion, the label uses age-old techniques of hand weaving and handcrafting, employing more than 500 weavers and artisans and their families, thereby sustaining their livelihood and art too.
The label’s next line-up comprises an exquisite range of hand-woven Benarasiand Kalamkari sarees. “The techniques used in Benarasi saris include Dumpanch, Katarvan, Vaskat, Kadhwa, Kadhiyal and Tanchhoi. Following the initial preparations which take about two months, some of the saris take about a week to get ready while some may take about three to four months. We are using pure katan and Bangalore silk for all our Benarasi saris,” informs Reena.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Warp ‘n’ Weft, Kshitij Jalori and Kasturi Kundal
Find more about the Fashion Designers and Designs:
https://www.warpnweft.in/products/heirloom
https://www.instagram.com/kshitijjalori/?hl=en
https://www.instagram.com/kasturikundal/?hl=en
https://www.instagram.com/warpnweftbysagrikarai/?hl=en
