DAL CUORE ALLE MANI: DOLCE AND GABBANA’S ODE TO ITALIANITÀ

Art possesses a unique ability to stir emotions, kindle desires, and establish connections beyond the ordinary. This profound experience lies at the heart of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s “From Heart to Hand” exhibition. Nestled within the iconic Palazzo Reale in Milan, renowned for its opulent showcases, this event runs from April 7 to July 31, 2024, captivating audiences before embarking on a global journey. Supported by the Municipality of Milan-Culture and crafted in collaboration with IMG, the exhibition unveils a lavish array of past Alta Moda, Alta Sartoria, and Alta Gioielleria collections.

Under the curation of esteemed French fashion historian Florence Müller, “From Heart to Hand” pays homage to the essence of Italian spirit — a fusion of innocence, sophistication, and daring. Each exhibit space serves as a narrative canvas, delving into the diverse inspirations that have shaped the duo’s design ethos. From evocative tributes to Italian heritage to groundbreaking interpretations of age-old craftsmanship, the exhibition promises a sensory immersion into the realm of Dolce & Gabbana’s haute couture.

Among various ornately decorated alleyways, visitors encounter a tapestry of commissioned artworks, Murano glass masterpieces, and even cutting-edge AI and NFT creations, each capturing the essence of Italy’s cultural mosaic. Live demonstrations by skilled couturiers and tailors offer an intimate glimpse into the meticulous artistry behind every garment. With each themed room exploring facets of visual arts, architecture, regional traditions, and the quintessential Italian zest for life, “From Heart to Hand” invites guests on a captivating journey through the soul of Italian creativity.

At the exhibition’s core is a vibrant representation of the designers’ atelier, bustling with seamstresses and tailors at work. This living display is a testament to their dedication to the excellence of “fatto a mano” (handmade) and their respect for the Italian artisans whose skills have been crucial in bringing their Alta Moda collections to life. The archive and new collections are displayed through themes highlighting the layers of Italian cultural influences on their fashion design, including art, architecture, artisanal craft, cities, regional topography, music, opera, ballet, folk traditions, theatre, and “la dolce vita.”

The exhibition is not only a grand tour through Dolce & Gabbana’s archives but also a journey through the ‘fountain of inspiration’ Italy has provided the designers over the years. Curated around key themes that capture the house’s essence, it offers a look inside the Dolce & Gabbana Atelier, showcases Renaissance-inspired architectural designs, and explores Sicilian artisanal traditions. In a glittering display of opulence, many pieces are a nod to the Italian fine art, featuring images of works by artists like Gian Giacomo Caprotti and Leonardo da Vinci. The exhibition’s core lies in celebrating Italian art, craftsmanship, and aesthetic while incorporating global and pop culture references.

Upon entering, visitors are immediately immersed in a replica of Teatro alla Scala’s red velvet boxes, setting the stage for creations that pay homage to Italian Opera. The gilded salon of Palermo’s Villa Gangi, famously featured in Luchino Visconti’s 1963 film “The Leopard,” is meticulously recreated, showcasing a sumptuous Alta Moda rendition of the ball gown worn by Claudia Cardinale. The Hall of Mirrors showcases gowns adorned with delicate glass ornaments, testifying to the imaginative craftsmanship of Venetian glassmakers.

Works by Caravaggio and Da Vinci are rendered on colourful corsets and cloaks, while the operas of Verdi and Puccini come to life on swirling organza capes. References to Visconti’s “Il Gattopardo” appear on hand-painted ball gowns, allowing visitors to experience Italy through the eyes of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.

In other rooms, the brand’s signature motifs are displayed more literally. Venetian glassmakers’ works, such as those by Barbini, Barovier & Toso, and Venini, form backdrops to outfits embellished with glistening crystal embroidery. Dramatic black-lace “Sicilian widow” dresses are showcased in a representation of Palermo’s Palazzo Gangi ballroom, where scenes from “Il Gattopardo” were filmed and where Dolce & Gabbana unveiled their high jewellery creations in 2017.

Next door, digital reproductions of Renaissance masterpieces adorn the walls and ceiling, mirrored in the myriad outfits on display. Raphael’s Sistine Madonna is embroidered onto a double-breasted tuxedo coat, Leonardo da Vinci’s La Belle Ferronière is cross-stitched onto a corset, and Caravaggio’s Basket of Fruit is reproduced in needlepoint on a voluminous cloak. The stairs of the neoclassical Palazzo Reale are adorned with digital artworks by creators like Felice Limosani and Quayola, creating a seamless blend of historic and contemporary art.

Amidst the opulent materials and decadent embroidered dresses, the exhibition also features previously unseen works by visual artists who have been commissioned to enter into a dialogue with Dolce & Gabbana’s lavish universe. This includes AI and NFT artworks and pieces selected for their ability to encapsulate the spirit and traditional art forms of Italian cities, such as Murano and Venetian glass chandeliers and Byzantine mosaics. Sicily, Domenico Dolce’s cherished homeland, is prominently featured, culminating in a vibrant display of the house’s signature majolica print.

In a masterful play of contrast, an adjoining room is filled with cherubs, floral compositions, and stucco-inspired detailing in pure white. This frames a cotton duchess jacket with Mikado sleeves shaped into angelic figures. Another stark juxtaposition of old and new is seen in 3D-printed armour-like vests crafted from thermoplastic polyurethane. The final room is a tribute to the world of opera, where Palazzo Reale transforms into an Italian theatre with designs inspired by the designers’ favourite operas.

This exhibition is an exquisite embodiment of Italian heritage with futuristic innovation. It celebrates the union of ideas and craftsmanship while offering a glimpse into the creative fervour that animates the designers’ dreams.

Like a masterpiece of art, the scenography applied creates a magical realm where reality meets imagination, inviting us to marvel at every meticulously crafted gown, jewelled coat, and intricately painted skirt with awe and wonder. It gently reminds us that true luxury lies not in its price but in the artistic vision, passionate dedication, and painstaking effort of the Fatto a Mano in an era dominated by factory production.

Dolce & Gabbana’s reverence for fashion as an art form shines through this exhibition. It chronicles their journey from young fashion students to global icons, embodying the power of belief and dedication. Aimed at leaving a legacy for future generations, it serves as a beacon of inspiration, encouraging young dreamers to pursue their aspirations. As the exhibition embarks on a global tour in 2025, its impact will reach far beyond Milan, continuing to inspire and captivate audiences worldwide.