CHANEL: Punk Princesses
Chanel unveiled the ‘Punk Princesses’ in its Fall/Winter 2020-2021 collection. The collection is marked by a desire for shimmering opulence and sophistication. “I was thinking about a punk princess coming out of ‘Le Palace’ at dawn,” explained Chanel’s Creative Director Virginie Viard.“With a taffeta dress, big hair, feathers, and lots of jewelry. This collection is more inspired by Karl Lagerfeld than Gabrielle Chanel. Karl would go to ‘Le Palace’, he would accompany these very sophisticated and very dressed up women, who were very eccentric too.”
Undoubtedly, the garments show subtle signs of the heroines inspired by 19th-century paintings. Blacks, burgundies and deep blues are softly blended with a burst of purple, sequins, gems, and pearls. A romantic air surrounds the trouser suits, corolla skirts, short and long dresses, and the iconic tweed – specifically reinvented for Haute Couture.
RAHUL MISHRA: Butterfly People
Rahul Mishra’s Couture collection was inspired by the nature blooming in the times of lockdown. The blue skies, the cleaner rivers, the migratory birds returning, and the butterflies fluttering in the kitchen gardens of Delhi.
Mishra says, “Maybe it is enough to live, to survive, to feed and support your family through the most unprecedented times in recent human history. India witnessed one of the biggest crises during this pandemic when thousands of migrant workers were displaced during the lockdown. A significant part of our New Delhi team is kaarigars (hand embroiderers and tailors), who, with the studio shut due to safety measures, were at the center of the storm. We are fortunate to have built a brand that stood by them in these troubled times and will continue to do so. But my conversations with the artisans, some of whom have been with us for over a decade now, was a strong reminder of why we are doing what we do.
‘Butterfly People’ answers a simple, yet very pertinent question; ‘What is the relevance of couture in these distressing times?’ The last few months have been a time when the entire atelier struggled together ‘Together’ is the more important word here. We ensured that every artisan is supported despite the countrywide official lockdown and an acute drop in sales. We were anxious, like the rest of the world, because everything seemed uncertain. But we were together in spirit.”
VIKTOR & ROLF: Change
The designers came out with yet another iconic collection composed of three different wardrobes – a nightgown, a dressing gown, and a coat – for three mindsets in extraordinary times of change.
“Change is necessary. The world around us is changing rapidly. Whether apocalypse or new spiritual era, you will continue to be able to step into the singular universe of spectacular beauty, unexpected elegance and spiritual glamour of Viktor&Rolf,” the brand wrote in an official statement.
The collection embodies a rather somber mood: a feeling of sadness and anger, familiar to many these days. The satin nightgown featured intricate lace appliqués with a rain cloud pattern whereas a grey chenille dressing gown showed an elaborate bow and extra-long sleeves. The accompanying dressing gown had asymmetrical bands and a sequence of bows that runs along the left sleeve. The bathrobe had an enveloping bodice and a skirt, highlighted by two heart-shaped pockets in red quilted satin.
JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER: ’No Show’
French designer Jean-Paul Gaultier is known for his theatrics and his innovative and exciting ways of surprising his fans. Although the real show was postponed to January 2021, the designer treated his audience to immerse oneself in preparation of the “No Show”, guided by longtime friends and a new generation of Gaultier’s muses wearing the best-of JPG Haute Couture archive collections.
From his iconic muses to JPG’s very own team who has contributed to building this House over the years the audience was invited to explore this marvelous cross-over between the world of Haute Couture and the multifaceted French beauties.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Images Courtesy: Chanel, Rahul Mishra, Viktor & Rolf, and Jean-Paul Gaultier
Find out more about the Artists and Gallery:
https://www.instagram.com/virginieviard/
