The return of the fashion week on the ramp has seen big names of the fashion industry celebrating it with joyous collections and introducing new lines. Ashis Soni who celebrates 30-years in the fashion industry wanted to wean away people from work-from-home track and tee stuff to more dressier fashion. Manish Malhotra showcased ‘Diffuse’, a new segment, an alter ego of his eponymous label. Couturier Tarun Tahiliani showcased a new luxury prét line, ‘Global Indian’.
Ashish N Soni, FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022
ASHISH N SONI
Ashish Soni and tailored fashion go hand in hand. Ashish’s collection without jackets and pant-suits is absolutely unimaginable. Sticking to his tailoring tradition, Soni showcased a collection that ranged across soft elongated silhouettes, ankle length pants, 80s inspired floral prints and corduroy suits. Corduroy fabric is back with a vengeance since Daniel Craig donned corduroy suits in the latest James Bond franchise. Unfortunately, besides Ashish Soni, I didn’t see much corduroy on the ramp.
For women, Soni had absolutely well crafted bar-jackets, for men there were Nehru jackets, double breasted ones, with piping details, floral prints and exciting textures. He even used toffee tones or what the designer likes to call – ‘gelato hues’ to brighten up the mood. Fabrics ranging from cotton-viscose, organza, chiffon, fine cambric, silk jacquards and upholstery leftovers were deftly used for a formal yet relaxed look. The suits and jackets were paired over draped tops and shirts, creating a fine layered look.
Manish Malhotra, Diffuse, FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022
MANISH MALHOTRA
Manish Malhotra showcased diffuse, a new segment, under his eponymous label at FDCI X Lakmé Fashion Week 2022. It was the designer’s bridge line catering to the young demographic and hence had elements of fun, vibrant textures, dynamic textures and edgy design.
Separates like Bomber jackets, eccentric prints, breezy kaftans, balloon pants with vests, blingy long fringe top, hand pained skirt, blazer dress, feather rimmed sarees, jackets with sharara, tube tops with gararas, pantsuits, sarong saree, and the signature Manish Malhotra sequins saree refined for Diffuse, accessorised with bags and jewellery spelt out ‘Fun’ on the ramp as that’s what Manish Malhotra said, “The ‘F’ in fashion stands for fun!”
Tarun Tahiliani, Global Indian, FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022
TARUN TAHILIANI
Couturier Tarun Tahiliani showcased his new luxury prét line, Global Indian at the FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week 2022.
The designer’s signature drapery was seen at its best. The look was flowy but in parts, sleek and structured too. Tahiliani used textiles woven with zari thread and resham to create metallic-textured sheen reminiscent of molten metals. There was generous use of prints that had been hand-painted in an embroidered form. Celebrating metallic tones of blacks, golds, greys, and blush pinks, Global Indian was a symphony of luminous hues and cascading drapes.
For women, Tahiliani showcased an array of sensual silhouettes such as lehengas, concept sarees, structured body corsets, kaftans, jumpsuits, gowns, dhoti pants, and gilets, often accentuated with a belt wrapped at the waist. For men, there were kurtas, bandhgala sherwanis, bundi jackets, dhoti pants, pyjamas, and churidars.
Pankaj & Nidhi, Marbella, FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022
PANKAJ & NIDHI
Pankaj and Nidhi showcased the Summer 2022 line titled Marbella at the FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week 2022.
Happy hues dominated the ramp from pinks to yellow to green and slowly subdued in beige and clay. The ensembles were heavily embellished with surface ornamentation. The layered cutwork embroidery, which is the designer’s fortè and hand cut and thread edged silk organza petals and leaves covered the flowing silhouettes. 3D appliquéd flowers, tassels, ruffles and dramatic sleeves added glitz to the look. The silhouettes moved from day to dusk as separates were the focal point of the collection. There was a line-up of bomber jackets, coordinated sets, feminine dresses and sheer fluid blouses. Adding glamour to the collection were strapless minis, tiered flared dresses, one-shoulder kaftan, culottes and jumpsuits.
Ranna Gill, Marrakesh, FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022
RANNA GILL
Ranna Gill celebrated Marrakesh in her collection. Ranna showcased effortless resort wear and also brought forth the intricate art of corsetry in her collection. The stunning corset dresses; bustiers, blouses, relaxed pants and jumpsuits are ideal holiday wear. The full-circle, flared skirts, the detailing of the giant bows and puff sleeves were interesting.
The Ranna Gill brand has always been synonymous with her signature prints. If the theme is Marrakesh, the prints obviously must match the mood and create the right ambience. Ranna felt that the Uzbek motifs best illustrate the theme along with ombrés, paisleys and stripes.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Ashish Soni, Manish Malhotra, Tarun Tahiliani, Pankaj and Nidhi, Ranna Gill, and FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week 2022.
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