Ladakh is a formidable kingdom with a rich history and culture. Being one of the highest regions in the world, it not only offers a distinctively striking landscape but one of the finest quality wools in the world. With a diversified textile history, weaving has been an integral part of Ladakh’s culture. The wall paintings and reliefs sighted in varied regions of Ladakh serve as a valuable record for it’s textile history.
JIGMAT COUTURE
With its heart in Ladakh, Jigmat Couture is rooted and sown in a rich cultural heritage. Being an ethical fashion house with an ambition to revive and preserve regional textile and craft, Jigmat Couture has set out to inspire many. Being the first fashion house from this region, Jigmat Couture was founded in 2010 by Jigmat Norbu and Jigmat Wangmo. They wanted the brand to carry their regional Himalayan identity and family name.
The duo works unconventionally where the artisans are free to produce their craft from their desirable place and have a sustainable approach even towards the production process. All the pieces are produced 100% locally, promoting Ladakhi weaves, some using traditional foot loom and back-strap loom. Jigmat also uses the age-old methods of drop spindles and hand spindle, which is a dying practice. The duo believes in keeping the natural colour of the textile and even if there is a need for colour, only natural dyes are used from wild rose, nettle, tree barks or various flowers and herbs. Jigmat has extended the initiative to preserve Ladakhi craft and art by opening a parallel museum that is open for all.
NAMZA COUTURE
Namza Couture is another fashion house from Ladakh, making a mark in the fashion world. The brand is a brainchild of Padma Yangchan and Jigmet Disket, born in 2016 with ulterior motive of reinstating the silhouette of traditional Ladakhi textiles beyond the region. This women led fashion house believes in preserving cultural heritage and Ladakh’s lost identity as a major contributor towards the ‘silk route’ economy. With a creatively confident take on the regional textile, the duo believes in safe-guarding traditional elements. They also use old weaving techniques unique to the region inclusive of yak wool (khulu), sheep (nambhu), camel or pashmina wool. Using natural dyeing processes, they employ local craftsmen. The brand uses an idiosyncratic ancient dyeing process in their couture garments called ‘Thikma’. This dyeing technique is similar to Bandhani and the dyes used are natural colors from flowers, rhubarb, onion peels. Thikma is an age-old process which was exclusive to the royal family of Ladakh before the 19th century. Thikma is distinctive with its color composition and motifs which are unique to the Trans-Himalayan region. They also had the honour of showcasing their work at London Fashion Week 2019 (Autumn/Winter) and were very well received by international media.
Exploring the possibilities of Nambhu and Khulu, the brand believes this is just the beginning and there is a lot more they can achieve. Namza is proudly an ethical fashion brand, cultivating Ladakhi textile craft through fair wages, local artisanal employment and thus taking on global recognition.
ZILZOM
Established in 2018, Zilzom is a fashion house by NIFT graduate Stanzin Palmo. Inspired by the culture, tradition, nature and regional textiles of Ladakh, Stanzin emotes through Zilzom. She draws influences from her surroundings of flora-fauna like sea-buckthorn, apricot blossom, clouds that are later translated into eco-friendly summer textiles. Zilzom is a slow, ethical fashion brand centred around story-narration through prints, traditional yet modern textile play. With a timeless approach, they employ locally and use traditional techniques and organic textile. The brand has been receiving nation-wide recognition and were a part of Lakme Fashion Week 2019 where they showcased their collection: ‘Between Earth and Sky.’
Talking about her brand, Palmo quotes “I feel my prints in Ladakhi silhouettes and Ladakhi handmade Pashmina shawl with embroidery aren’t seen anywhere and is something new for everyone where each piece tells a story with emotions all the way from Ladakh”.
These designer houses, Jigmat Couture, Namza Couture and Zilzom have displayed their work at various national and international fashion shows and earned accolades for their designs.
LOOMS OF LADAKH
The fourth fashion house that needs its own spotlight is Looms of Ladakh which is essentially a Women Cooperative. Centred around women empowerment and sustainability, the cooperative was founded by Abhilasha Bahuguna and her husband Prasanna Ramaswamy G.. It is based on the concept of farm to fashion, cultivating regional skills, traditions and textiles. Trying to direct attention towards the wool industry, they enhance the region’s rich wool heritage in renditions of pashmina, yak, sheep and camel wool. Wool is a sustainable and eco-friendly fibre that has an extensive demand globally. The cooperative welcomes women from remote areas and teaches them the skills and then employs them. They are often trained under fashion designers who help them hone their skill set that in-turn helps them generate an income.
Looms of Ladakh are bridging the gap by connecting artisans and buyers directly through this textile model. Being a part of the Looms of Ladakh family, artisans can explore, enhance and cultivate their skills and gain fiscally simultaneously. The women cooperative is a team of 150 regional women who have the means of approach to medical care, education for their children and food. Accessibility to these essentials, inturn leads to an enhanced quality of life.
Bahuguna and Ramaswamy’s initiative is a need of the hour, in today’s fast fashion world.
While we are awestruck by global fashion trends, influences and multinational brands, it is essential to get in touch with our roots and preserve our cultural heritage. These four brands from Ladakh are inspiring the gen-x designers to explore more, culturally and regionally.
Text by Shalini Passi
Image Courtesy: Jigmat Couture, Namza Couture, Zilzom and Looms of Ladakh
Find out more:
