July is that time of the year when India’s most anticipated fashion event takes place – the annual India Couture Week. The India Couture Week 2023 was its 16th edition and was grander in scale. The week hosted by the Fashion Design Council of India had a line-up of sixteen couturiers who each showcased in an average of seventy five plus creations over nine days. The ensembles were created in ateliers over months of painstaking work where designers sketched, draped mul-mul on dummies, created mood-boards and then got the craftsmen to bring to life the dreams they envisioned. The creation of love was presented in opulent sets that matched the grandeur of the creations.
FALGUNI SHANE PEACOCK
The ‘Renaissance Reverie’ collection by Falguni Shane Peacock was opulent. Pastel hues, crystalline embroidery, gowns with boned corsets and wrapped with a cloak, high-waisted lehengas paired with cropped jackets, slitted gown with leg-of-mutton sleeves, tonal embroidery made the show a fitting opening show at the 16th India Couture Week.
Couturiers nowadays create collections with elements that can be worn over and over in different occasions. The jackets over micro blouses that are paired with lehengas can be paired with jeans. The pocketed lehengas can be separately worn as skirts and the micro blouses can be paired with saree
RITU KUMAR
Ritu Kumar is one of India’s senior most couturiers . Three generations of Ritu Kumar lovers were at the show enjoying every ensemble that strutted down the ramp. The collection used heritage textiles to craft contemporary dresses, jackets, capes and Anarkalis.
Panelled lehengas with pockets, traditional motifs of bel, buti and paisley, enhanced with dabka work, regality of ivory hues, shirts tucked into maxis, patina colour effects, wide-legged pants paired with tube tops and capes, pre-draped sarees and jackets comprised the collection that had something for everybody. Truly Ritu Kumar is the OG couturier.
VARUN BAHL
Varun Bahl’s collection was presented in a set that looked like a garden path and flowers bloomed on his collection. The creations were a hybrid of traditional and bohemian that would appeal to the fashionistas in for some experimental silhouettes. The floral embroideries in vibrant hues stood out on black and grey background.
The collection can be credited with creating bridal couture that’s easy to carry. The flared pants and pyjamas paired with sherwanis and jackets looked very comfy. Slitted gowns, long coats paired with floral embroidered leggings and beautiful sarees made the collection look experimental and dreamy. The bohemian feel about the collection made it stand out from the others.
KUNAL RAWAL
Kunal’s collection was subtle but the architectural shapes were bold and surface embellishment techniques were unique. The kurtas had long and short hemlines, the jackets were textured with 3-D embroidery and the sharers for women had ballooning shapes, giving it an urban feel. Trousers paired with a wrap skirt was the show stealer.
GAURAV GUPTA
Gaurav Gupta showcased the collection that he showed at the Paris Couture Week. It was an enigmatic collection that MASH had featured earlier.
At the India Couture Week we saw the addition of a few ensembles that are Indian in essence and are a must for bridal couture. The iridescent blue lehengas-choli was a worthy show-stopper.
JJ VALAYA
If one couturier who showcased timeless bridal couture, it was JJ Valaya. The looks were regal and ensembles seemed ones worn by erstwhile princes and princesses. The finesse was impeccable .
Valaya took to Gujarat to draw inspiration for this collection. Beautiful mirror work, motifs inspired by Mughal inlay work and from the Kutch region and the rich Mashru fabric of Gujarat were used to craft the beautiful collection.
JJ Valaya said, “The finest of silken and special weave fabrics enhanced with our signature embroideries are used to piece together a glorious offering of Indian Couture through a Bridal and Couture collection for women and men for the season of 2023-24. This season I chose to delve into the history of Gujarat, rustling up a past which is both intriguing as well as inspiring.”
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Gaurav Gupta, Varun Bahl, Ritu Kumar, JJ Valaya, Kunal Rawal, and Falguni Shane Peacock
