The sixteenth edition of India Couture Week (ICW) had such an illustrious lineup of couturiers that it was a treat to the fashionistas and the lovers of fashion. Besides bridal couture, there were designers who showcased contemporary couture, which we often see glossing the covers of international fashion magazines and donned by international celebrities on different red-carpet events. It is wonderful to see India making its mark in the global fashion arena.
ROHIT GANDHI & RAHUL KHANNA
The ‘Equinox’ collection showcased by the designer duo of Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna brought the beauty of the celestial phenomenon of Autumn Equinox onto their exquisitely crafted ensembles. The perfectly tailored dresses, gowns, and suits were beautified by intricate 3D embroidery of motifs representing tattoos and body art. The metallic elements that were used for embroidery on sheer gossamer fabric made the outfits sparkle like the Equinox sky.
The sheer fabric embellished with metallic sheen, crafted architecturally into gowns and dresses were detailed with slits, cut-outs, capes and big bows. The opacity of beautiful embroidery over sheer fabric was a beautiful juxtaposition of opaque over sheer. The men’s jackets were shimmery with metallic embellishment and paired over draped kurtas and wide-legged pants.
The collection was indeed sleek and urbane and received immense love and appreciation.
Expect the ensembles to be spotted at celebrated events.
ANAMIKA KHANNA
Ace couturier Anamika Khanna’s collection was all about juxtaposition of structure-with- drape and of modern-with-antique. The collection was a marriage of art with fashion.
The ivory dresses had elaborate lace work and were textured with thread embroidery in emerald, blues and reds to create a contrasting motif of hearts and bows. Antiquated silver and gold metallics were abundantly used to embellish the ensembles that were a blend of tailoring and fluidity.
The striking ensembles were the one where Anamika collaborated with her artist son to create artwork on long jackets, maxi skirts and capes. Dramatic faces and birds shone out bright that were intrinsically embellished using coloured threads sewn onto black and ivory fabric. The collection was indeed dramatic and drew huge applause.
SHANTANU & NIKHIL
The designer duo of Shantanu and Nikhil presented their bridal couture collection titled ‘Etheria.’ The crystal and glass-beads-ornate tuxedos and jackets were dazzling. Paired over sheer shirts and tucked in cummerbunds, the look was uber metro-sexual.
Low-waisted lehengas, tiered gown with winged sleeves, dhoti draped dress with embroidered bodice, bejewelled cape and wine coloured cascading lehenga with draped choli were some of the beauties that caught the eye. The men’s line was more dramatic. The sheer vests with elongated cuffs added oodles of drama to the look.
The show was a typical statement on how Indian Couture is all about opulence and grandeur.
RIMZIM DADU
Designer Rimzim Dadu made her debut at the India Couture Week and what a debut it was!
The collection was an ode to water: its form, power and versatility. The way Rimzim depicted the rhythmic ripples of water on lehengas with fine interplay of threads was magnificent. The magenta lehengas with blue bralette and pewter-coloured gown, captured the motion of water in its weaves.
The fine Ikat work on bundis and saree-dress, intricately cut-out lehengas, iridescent silk bundis and the gowns were simply beautiful.
Rimzim Dadu sure holds a lot of promise and one got to look out for her esoteric creation. Way to go girl!
RAJESH PRATAP SINGH
The designer, Rajesh Pratap Singh can be described as a non-conformist, the one who is always embracing the unconventional. His Couture collection ‘Desert Rose’ was absolutely brilliant. Not afraid to push the boundaries, Pratap took the traditional silhouettes and tweaked them with modernity. Drawing from his home state of Rajasthan, he played magnificently with the customary ‘Odhni’ or the ‘Ghoongat’ and gave it an urban nomadic feel of a cape or hood.
The fabrics with woven silver and gold created shiny tones on flowy silhouettes. The lehengas were voluminous and the leather embossed cholis were mind-blowing.
Pratap took to the colour of the desert and elaborately used black, hues of the rose and white. Beautified with prints, cuts and extraordinary-crafting, the designer showed that an ensemble’s grandeur is not necessarily dependent on over-the-top embellishment.
Silhouettes, borrowed from the traditional dancers of the Thar Desert and the Poshak of the locals, were seen across the collection. The use of woven-metal in fabrics and leather, the enigmatic styling of the veils and the hoods, the uncustomary lehengas and cholis highlighted Rajesh Pratap Singh’s pure vision for fashion that’s not influenced by populism.
The show received thunderous applause and standing ovation for the clothes, the live musicians, dancer and of course, the designer.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna, Anamika Khanna, Shantanu & Nikhil, Rimzim Dadu, and Rajesh Pratap Singh
Find out more about the collection:
https://www.rohitandrahul.com/