The Indian Fashion Design Industry is in a limbo because of the ongoing lockdown and staring at a future that is full of uncertainty. There are too many questions floating in the mind of the Indian designers. Would the post lockdown buying habits of a typical designer wear clientele change to be more conservative? Would designers go in for a price war to maximize sales? Would there be some kind of relief from the government in the form of a reduction in Goods and Services Tax (GST), and easier financing terms by the banks and the Non-Banking Financial Corporations (NBFC)?
But amidst all these troubling questions, one thing is for sure— most of the established designers will retain their entire workforce and use more handloom fabric so that weavers, who are one of the worst-hit artisans in the current crisis get some hope in their troubled lives. Designers who have established their brand and are especially known for using handloom and more handwork like hand embroidery, block prints, Kantha work, intricate appliqué work and embellishment using traditional hand skills are looking at using more and more handwork to replace even the slightest of mechanization.
Rahul Mishra who just showcased his first couture collection at the Paris Couture Week Spring/Summer 2020 says, “Rahul Mishra as a brand, finds its genesis in the Gandhian philosophy of cultural and ethical sustainability. It remains our constant aim to create clothing that is born through the intention of uplifting and empowering the Indian craft sector. In the testing time of a crisis, we find ourselves determined to our purpose and craft and shall seek to contribute with our possible best.” In fact, Rahul revealed during our conversation that his finance team is working on a new half-yearly business plan in consideration with a workforce that is larger by 30% of their current number so that they are able to provide an opportunity of work to more artisans post the dreadful time of this pandemic.
Pankaj and Nidhi, a label creatively headed by Pankaj Ahuja are known for their exquisite hand embroidery that is so fine that the embroidered motifs almost look like they are printed on the ensemble. Pankaj and Nidhi also use lots of Origami and appliqué work. Pankaj was tense about how things will work out in the future but was definite of the fact that they will retain all workers and artisans and will concentrate more on handwoven textile and handcrafted embellishment. Pankaj told me, “Handmade craftsmanship is the DNA of our country’s landscape. We as designers have always worked with this unique strength to create and establish our design identity. In the wake of this unprecedented global disaster, we have to stay safe but also hope to soon be able to continue making intricate and timeless creations with all hands working together again, to rebuild our industry’s future, one beautiful piece at a time.” Indeed one beautiful piece at a time; one beautiful stitch at a time and the looms working again to weave magic in its warp and the weft!
“We aim to extend further our philosophy of mindful luxury to the consumer by continuing to project the idea of fashion that is made with a purpose of empowerment opposed to that which is made for just consumption. We aim to create ‘craftsmanship’ into a new parameter of beauty through the time and borrow from our distinct cultural heritage of craft” Rahul Mishra states in an overtly optimistic tone. This optimism is as infectious as the Coronavirus but a lot will depend on the customers and the fashionistas who are happily posting and propagating on social media to buy more Indian fashion to see them live up to it.
Designer Samant Chauhan who made his name with the use of ‘Ahimsa Silk’ where the silk yarn is extracted without killing the silkworm is also a great believer in using Indian handwoven textiles and traditional crafts for embellishing his creations. Samant says, “The future is uncertain and yet, there is hope in craft, in things made with love over hours. There is a need to innovate and to return to crafts, to imagine more, to maybe even attempt painting, embroidering entire landscapes and cities and mountains and seas. What the lockdown and the pandemic have done is to make us fight hard for survival. It has made us remember things, it has made us imagine places, and all this can be used for fashion as a way to stay relevant and become a canvas of nostalgia and a roadmap of the future. I have always used handmade textiles that take a long time to weave and to process and embroidery that is done by hand and as we go into the future, I want to gather the sails and focus on these crafts and skills because fast fashion is restrictive. This will be an ode to artisans and an ode to the teachings of the pandemic.”
The legendary luxury wear designer Tarun Tahiliani is known for his mastery over drapes and impeccable fit that ooze luxury. Tarun too uses many artisans for his beautiful embroidery work and numerous master tailors to create those luxurious ensembles. Tarun Tahiliani feels that post-COVID, lovers of fashion should not only believe in ‘Be Indian-Buy Indian but also Buy Heritage’. He adds, “We have to take care of the people who have been with us and also bring in more weavers, embroiderers, and artisans within our fold. We have to return to ‘Real Luxury’, which involves huge man-hours put in by seamstresses, weavers weaving innovative textiles and artisans from different parts of India to use them to embellish our designs. We will have to return to our heritage and use handwork very extensively to create beautiful fashion and take along those people behind every luxurious creation we design to rejuvenate fashion.”
Text By Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Rahul Mishra, Pankaj & Nidhi, Samant Chauhan and Tarun Tahiliani
Find out more about the Artists and Gallery:
https://www.instagram.com/rahulmishra_7/?hl=en
https://www.instagram.com/pankajandnidhi/?hl=en
https://www.notjustalabel.com/pankaj-and-nidhi
https://www.instagram.com/samantchauhan/?hl=en
