A new season of India Fashion Week hosted by Lakme in partnership with the FDCI at a new venue has added a new charm to the event. Lakme Fashion Week in partnership with the Fashion Design Council of India at the Jio World Garden brings together young designers making their debut on the runway with the established names from the industry.
Here are some shows that caught our attention and rightfully deserve a mention.
Bodice by Ruchika Sachdev is one such label that presented the spring/summer 2023 collection. The collection was beautiful with a variety of silhouettes in bright summer colours; sun-dresses where panels of contrasting hues were stitched together. The pleated shirt-dresses in Kora were beautiful and so were the boxy cropped jackets paired with flared pants. Ruchika invested in separates for the collection, creating new looks. Tent-tops, pleated skirts and wide-legged pants with textured jackets can be worn in different combos, suiting different occasions and moods. Dramatic sleeves, thread detailing to create textures and panel work were highlights of BODICE spring/summer 2023 collection.
Summing up her collection, Ruchika said, “Audiences witnessed the collection, which is an extension of archetypal Bodice pieces, reimagined for a playful summer.”
Bodice by Ruchika Sachdev
AKAARO By Gaurav Jai Gupta showcased autumn/winter 2023 collection titled, ‘The sky is Mine’. The collection draws inspiration from French artist Yves Klein’s project – ‘The Sky is Blue’. Needless to say we got to see shades of blue on the ramp in textiles that are handwoven with esoteric elements. These weaving techniques are Gaurav Jai Gupta’s forte. It is not commonplace to weave cotton with Merino wool, stainless steel microfilaments and filaments of silk. It is these materials that add a sheen to the fabric and ensembles stand out thereafter.
V-neck maxi dresses, button-down dresses paired with soft-lapel knee-length jackets, layered saree-blouses textured with deftly positioned tucks and folds and embellished with a 3-D corsage were interesting styles that we witnessed on the ramp.
Since Akaaro was showcasing the fall/winter 2023 collection, we saw varied styles of jackets. There were bombers with pockets, long wraparound knee-length jackets cinched at the waist with a belt and traditional trench coats, all made out of fabric that glistened with strands of steel and silk woven in by master weavers.
At the fashion week Gaurav Jai Gupta was labelled as ‘Innovator’, a designer who disrupts the normal to create and design something new. Acknowledging the title, Gaurav said, “It was a great experience to showcase my collection at Lakmé Fashion Week X FDCI almost after six years. My last show was in 2017. I started my career with FDCI, so being part of the FDCI Innovators showcase made it all the more special. It felt like life had come full circle.”
Nitin Bal Chauhan is known for his unconventional designs and avant-garde look. His garment construction is exceptional and Nitin is known for showing something out-of the box in his collections.
The collection titled ‘Outsider’ showcased a punk look. The silhouettes were asymmetrical and were deftly constructed with crafty patterns and off-centre detailing. The black dress with an asymmetric cinch at the waist and cord and metal mesh stitched upon was a perfect example of it.
Bal also took 3-Dimensional embroidery to a whole new level. The white asymmetrical coat dress with coloured cord and embroidery created a dramatic texture on an otherwise simple albeit well-constructed outfit.“I wanted to bring in our best notions to surprise the audience with something refreshing and new so that it doesn’t get dull and boring. This is what matters. We push boundaries and make things that look different”, Bal remarked.
Beneath by Vaishali S
Vaishali S gave us a glimpse of the underwater world with her collection, ‘Beneath’. The flora and fauna of the ocean floor, the beautiful corals and enigmatic life species of the ocean were visible in her collection.
It was magic; handcrafted detailing that sculpted the dramatic shapes on the beautiful garments and Vaishali’s signature cord technique that sculpts and moulds the outfit into an artform.
On the ramp Vaishali showed gowns that replicated deep sea life forms like the magnificent Stingrays and Octopus. She used intricate 3-D embroidery to replicate the corals and flora and fauna found in the ocean floors. Extreme cording technique and the intricacy of it all was mind boggling. Even after creating such diverse shapes, each ensemble looked wearable and comfortable.
Vaishali stated, “This collection depicts my discovery of the underwater world and also myself by diving into the unknown.”
Fabric of Freedom by Khadi India
Khadi India showcased India’s luxurious ‘fabric of freedom’ that was brilliantly used by three talented designers- Divyam Mehta, Suket Dhir and Shruti Sancheti. Khadi has established itself as one of the most luxurious handwoven textiles today after years of innovation and R&D work undertaken by Khadi Village and Industries Corporation (KVIC) in association with FDCI.
Divyam Mehta in ‘Raw Khadi Story’ showcased well constructed jackets and trousers alongside draped silhouettes. Colour story was primarily blue, indigo, and slate, and Divyam used Kantha craft from Bengal, block prints, and rural wall art that comprises dots in geometrical pattern to embellish the outfits.
Strips of monochrome panels stitched diagonally added drama to the outfits. The fluid structure of the ensembles made it great for casual wear. Soft unlined Khadi jackets paired with flared trousers with red piping, Khadi bandhgala with side pockets paired with coordinated pants and co-ordinated kurta-pyjamas were a treat to the eyes.
Understated Opulence by Shruti Sancheti
Suket Dhir showcased a vibrant menswear collection titled ‘Spring Forest’. Keeping in line with the theme of his collection, Suket extensively used prints of wildlife like the leopard, black buck and the hornbill on his finely tailored garments. Dhir used Khadi of various counts to obtain the needed softness and stiffness for different garments. For jackets he used a stiffer option while for shirts and pants, Dhir opted for a softer Khadi. He used Kantha work to embellish the collection and used satin and silk linings to add a flavour of luxury.
Shruti Sancheti showcased what was an epitome of ‘Understated Opulence’, the title of her show. Shruti used Khadi silk and cotton to create beautiful floor-duster jackets, pretty boleros, layered dresses in hues of rust, pink, mustard, and indigo to create a wholesome collection. Intricate embroidery using cords and fine Mukaish work embellished the garments.
In conclusion it was a stunning collection. Khadi is indeed going places and has become a fabric of choice for designers in India and abroad. The designers showcased how adaptable and trendy Khadi is and in the era of Woke fashion, Khadi has truly arrived.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Ruchika Sachdeva, Akaaro, Nitin Bal Chauhan, Vaishali S, Divyam Mehta, Suket Dhir, and Shruti Sancheti.
Find out more about the collection:
https://www.instagram.com/ruchikasachdeva/
https://www.instagram.com/akaaro/
https://www.instagram.com/nitinbalchauhan/
https://www.instagram.com/vaishalisstudio/
https://www.instagram.com/divyammehta/
https://www.instagram.com/suketdhir/
