The coloration of any collection is definitive of the look, just as important as the silhouettes and the detailings. We saw dominant hues of monochrome – blacks and whites and vibrant prints on the ramp.
‘Black’ has always been the ‘it’ colour. Paired with whites, black blossoms up, and the juxtaposition of opposites enhance the detailing a designer creates on their canvas.
Vibrant florals, abstract, and celestial prints add a narrative to the collection and embellish the ensembles creating different moods and stories.
Time Travel by Abraham and Thakore
On the second day, we saw two doyens of the Industry – Shahab Durazi and Abraham & Thakore stuck to a monochromatic palette while others let loose on vibrant colours with myriad prints. Diversity in styles and shapes is evident in this season-fluid fashion week as we are getting to see autumn/winter lines as well as the spring/summer 2023 collection. Fabrics change, colours change, and silhouettes change with the change in season.
Timeless Couture by Shahab Durazi
Shahab Durazi: Timeless Couture
One of the founders of Indian fashion, the reticent designer Shahab Durazi was back on the ramp after twelve years. Known for his penchant for impeccable tailoring and construction, Durazi showcased a collection that was retrospective of his label with contemporary high fashion ensembles.
The ’nipped-waist’ silhouette is trending globally. We saw the trend evident in Shahab Durazi’s collection. He used cummerbunds and belts to cinch the ensembles at the waist. The black and white story of the collection was embellished with beads and pearls. The beaded pants were the signature Durazi muted look that he is a master of. The gowns were mostly off-shoulder and some with crystal-embellished necklines tailored perfectly to the mermaid silhouette. Black dresses with chiffon sleeves, boleros and beaded capes lined with strings of pearls were stylish. Menswear too couldn’t go wrong with someone whose forte is impeccable tailoring. The jackets, sherwani and suits paired with shirts with broad cuffs and gilded with pearls and beads were dapper.
Time Travel by Abraham and Thakore
Abraham & Thakore: Time Travel
The designer duo of David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore call their collections – ‘Trend-agnostic’. Not a slave to the fast-moving trends that is so typical of the fashion industry, the duo stuck to their monochromatic lines of affordable couture. The collection was a mix of autumn/winter 2022 and spring/summer 2023 lines.
The collection showed a marriage of opposites – where khadi was wedded with viscose, heritage with contemporary and feminine sensibilities with masculine ones. The tunic paired with a long skirt very similar to a wrapped Veshti, and was typical of feminine mixed with the masculine. Handloom sarees paired with yellow and sage green shirts, textured jackets, flowy kaftans over leggings, kurtas, tunics and palazzos in sunshine yellow in the sea of black and white were the epitome of timeless and sustainable fashion.
A Stranger Thinks by Satya Paul
Satya Paul: A Stranger Thinks
When one thinks of Satya Paul one thinks of print. Though the brand Satya Paul has evolved immensely under the creative leadership of Rajesh Pratap Singh, the DNA of the brand remains prints.
This collection was targeted at Generation Z with a focus on active wear and athleticism. The prints were surreal and various elements of the Cosmos were their inspiration. Pratap says, “1920s artists and hip-hop came together as inspiration for the collection.” Outfits made out of technical fabric made for scuba diving, satin, viscose, organza cotton and silk with myriad prints and fashion-forward silhouettes drew applause from the trendy hipsters.
Eka by Rina Singh
Rina Singh: It’s Only A Dream
Rina Singh presented a pleasant Summer 2023 collection for her label Eka in soft hues interspersed with some vibrant palettes to create a perfect summer line.
Layered styles consisting of sheer robes and summer jackets thrown over dresses and tiered skirts in contrasting hues, peasant dresses with block prints, floral embroidery, pintucks and smocking details made for an uber girly look. The silhouettes were free and fluid and the fabric used was summer’s friendliest – Kota, linen and cotton blends.
As per the designer, the inspiration for the collection came from ‘Alice in Wonderland’. The colourful collection indeed took us to a world of magical realism and fascination.
Melange Of Ideas by Anand Kabra
Anand Kabra: Melange Of Ideas
Anand Kabra has returned to fashion week after a long hiatus with his ‘Melange of Ideas’ collection. This Hyderabad-based designer is known for quirky styling and the use of vibrant colour palettes.
This season we find designers focusing on the waist and hence use of corsetry is evident in many collections. In Anand Kabra’s collection, we saw luxurious silk and chiffon in hues of charcoal, sky blue, mustard, white and vibrant vermilion. Tunics with panelled yoke and oversized sleeves, vermilion printed tiered skirts and bolero jackets in tonal embroidery, oversized tunics with sharara pants, saris and some very stylised tops with avant-garde cuts and drapes. Delicate lacework, strategic placement of dyeing like the dash of vermilion on a one-shoulder top, creative cutwork on sleeves, contrast coloured stitch detailing and some bead work on skirts and waistbands made the collection indeed a ‘Melange of Ideas’.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Shahab Durazi, David Abraham, Rakesh Thakore, Satya Paul, Rina Singh, and Anand Kabra.
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