FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022 is holding a fluid season whereby a designer can showcase Couture, Diffusion or Pret-a-Porter line of the present season or the coming season. However it is Pret-a Porter lines that best showcase and forecast the trends to be.
Payal Pratap, JAVA, FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022
PAYAL PRATAP
Designer Payal Pratap’s JAVA was an ode to her father and her formative years in Indonesia. She used the Batik technique to the hilt and reminisced her father’s love for Batik printed shirts.
She brought back maximalism to her look with Batik and Chintz printing of birds, flowers, vines and leaves in tones of indigo, brick, ivory, rust and gold. The hand painted and then digitised prints even had 3D depth with appliquéd sequins.
The collection consisted of appliquéd jackets, wrap jumpsuits, lungi skirts, wide leg pants, knotted skirt and the wraparound bodice. Blouse embellished with appliquéd corsage paired with an inverted pleated skirt, Nehru jacket with giant, shimmering floral bouquets, in fact all the long jackets, Indonesian lungi skirts, Maxis were simply stunning and are a must-haves in a fashionistas wardrobe. Simple looking, intricately detailed and constructed, Payal’s collection was a winner.
KHADI
The Khadi show brought forth by Khadi India/ KVIC brought forth the fabric of freedom to centre stage at the FDCI X Lakme India Fashion Week. The multi designer show was divided into two segments, first featured ensembles by French designer Mossi Traoré and the second segment included collections by India’s top designers, Abhishek Gupta Benares, Anavila, Anju Modi, Charu Parashar and Rina Dhaka.
The first segment saw Khadi travel overseas to Paris in the hands of designer Mossi Traoré. The collection was an amalgamation of drapes, fluid shapes and architectural lines as he reinterpreted some of his iconic ensembles into Khadi.
Asymmetric shirts and skirts, plunged neckline jacket, wrap pants, kaftan, batwing blouse, baggy blouson, a saree drape blouse, and white jumpsuit had simplicity but loads of style.
The second segment showcased timeless ensembles in hues of white, black and spice by Indian designers Abhishek Gupta Benaras, Anavila, Anju Modi, Charu Parashar and Rina Dhaka and paid tribute to the much textured material khadi.
Charu Parashar(right), Abhishekh Gupta Benares (left), Khadi India, FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022
Abhishekh Gupta Benares
Abhishek Gupta offered a modern Indian look that gave Khadi an interesting millennial appeal for the traditional wear in pastels with delicate embroidery. Going for the all-black look with hints of shimmer the blouse and wide pants, hoodie kurta with palazzos and the waistcoat/kurta/pant trio spelt relaxed dressing up. Men’s wear stayed true to just kurta and bundi with slim pants.
Anavila
Anavila Misra gave her designing touches to her Khadi collection created with fabrics expertly woven by the weavers of the Burdwan region in West Bengal. Contemporary jamdaani motifs added an organic appeal to the sarees. The delicate sarees, long kurta, salwars, tunic and cropped pants were perfect summer looks.
Anju Modi
Anju Modi’s Sattvic collection stayed rooted on the Sattvic path. Anju’s colour story revolved around haldi, chandan and keshri that turned the ensembles into a serene and pious offering to the wearer. With yellow and white as the combo with a hint of pink and fuchsia, there were shaded kurtas, angarkha and luxurious lehengas, choli and dupatta trios.
Charu Parashar
Charu Parashar turned her creative gaze on “The Khadi Bride” as she glamorised Khadi and turned it into a bridal trousseau essential. Khadi silk was adorned with coloured prints. An ornate scalloped kurta, choli with pleated lungi, kurta with wide pants, saree with a long coat for the bride and sherwani for the groom were all perfect bridal attire in shades of haldi and green.
Mossi Traoré (right), Rina Dhaka (left), Khadi India, FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022
Rina Dhaka
Rina Dhaka’s love for Khadi and eco-friendly fashion has been a constant, which the designer has followed for decades. Rina’s Khadi collection evoked the gypsy in every woman with its fluid feminine drapes accentuated with floral touches. A great line of flared kurta with cuffed pants, corset choli with a trendy maxi skirt and the palazzos with a long over shirt screamed easy dressing.
RAJESH PRATAP
Rajesh Pratap Singh is known for his minimalism, great attention to detail, and textile innovation. The collection, New Order, which was inspired by the ornamental art nouveau movement and the spirit of resistance that art nouveau is known for. Rajesh Pratap’s collection for Satya Paul was a reminder about the power of art, and how returning to nature can be the best route when freedom is in question.
Pratap has taken the print heritage of the brand Satya Paul to a whole new level that will draw the millennial and the Gen Z to it like never before. The collection was rebellious in a true sense. The spirit of the ‘Hood’, Street Party and Hip-Hop culture poured out of each ensemble. The collection that had inspiration from Scuba-diving wear, lots of hooded jackets and sweatshirts, military boots, riot of colours, statement coats and tees is all set to make a global statement.
Easy-breezy kaftans and kimonos paired with fitted garments, blurred the lines between night and day, beach and street, party and bedroom. The juxtaposition of absolute opposites were mind-boggling. There were endless variations on the drape, and the saree proved once again, to be one of the most versatile garments on the ramp.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Payal Pratap, Khadi India, Charu Parashar, Abhishek Gupta Benares, Rajesh Pratap Singh, FDCI X Lakme Fashion Week 2022
Find more about the Designers and Designs:
https://www.satyapaul.com/category/collections-all
