jade

SHALINI PASSI IN CONVERSATION WITH JADE

Monica and Karishma found their calling in fashion early and have been successfully researching and consulting for internationally acclaimed luxury fashion brands such as Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Dior, etc. for two decades. Monica discovered her innate talent for design and love for draping at St. Martin’s, London. While Karishma honed her skills in fashion at the National Institute of Fashion Technology, India’s premier fashion institute. Having amassed long experience in international fashion for two decades, there was the yearning to chart a different course. JADE is the culmination of this yearning, and was established in 2008.

SP: Could you give a brief introduction to your educational and artistic background?

M&K: I graduated from Jai Hind College, and then went on to study Interior Design at Rachna Sansad School of Design. After this, I did a course in design at Central St. Martin’s in London. I have also learnt sculpting and Bharatanatyam.

SP: What are you currently working on?

M&K: We’re working on our new collection. Along with that, we’re working on fine-tuning our ecommerce platform as well as our virtual bridal experience.

SP: How was JADE by Monica and Karishma born?

M&K: Karishma and I were working together with several international fashion houses like Dior, Versace and Gucci to name a few, under our parent company Chanakya International – which is one of India’s leading export houses, way before we started JADE. Working closely with global brands to create high-fashion pieces gave us a unique and deeper insight into hand craftsmanship, global sensibilities and creating luxury that lasts. The whole time, our passion for Indian artistry, crafts and techniques was alive and burning bright within us. Eventually, Karishma and I realised that we had the same vision, and the time was right to bring this international know-how back home, and put Indian artistry on the world map. That’s how JADE was born.

SP: Could you tell us more about your NGO, The Chanakya Foundation?

M&K: The Chanakya Foundation or the Chanakya School of Craft was brought to life in 2018. The School was inaugurated by Maria Grazia Chiuri – Creative Director of Dior. The vision of The Chanakya Foundation focuses on an all-round development through education, skill development and women’s empowerment while investing in the preservation of our heritage and promotion of the arts. Our mission is to provide women from low income communities with high-quality education in hand embroidery and craftsmanship, enabling them to maximize their potential and enhance their lives.

SP: You have worked with a number of large internationally acclaimed fashion houses, such as Valentino and DIOR. What does it mean to you to highlight Indian craftsmanship in a global field?

M&K: We consider it an honour and privilege. This has always been our dream – to celebrate India’s artisanal excellence on a global scale. As designers who hold Indian heritage at our hearts, it is our responsibility to show the world the vast treasures of arts and crafts we have. India is so ahead of its time and so unique in its offerings. Besides, Indian crafts and techniques have this unique ability to be adapted to create modern pieces too, but it’s not something that’s highlighted often. The only way to sustain this heritage is by celebrating it at every opportunity.

SP: What was the inspiration behind your embroidery line, Monica & Karishma Couture?

M&K: We wanted brides to have a unique and immersive bridal experience, by bringing their dream ensembles to life in a very collaborative environment. Simultaneously, we also wanted to bring to the spotlight the rich artistry and hand craftsmanship that’s a part of our heritage. Monica & Karishma Couture emerges from the confluence of these two lines of thought. The pieces under this label are rare, richly detailed and painstakingly handcrafted. The ensembles carry a personalised label and are packed in a special trunk, because it’s nothing less than treasure! It’s also our way of giving millennial brides something that can be an heirloom that they will pass on to their future generations.

SP: What are the creative processes behind your designs and ensembles?

M&K: We travel extensively throughout the country, in search of hidden arts and crafts. And most of our designs are inspired by our travels. Additionally, we interact a lot with our brides and brides-to-be, to learn their tastes, preferences, quirks and needs. This helps us understand what the women we’re designing for want exactly. In general, Karishma and I are always immersed in reading about fabrics, arts and crafts from India and across the world which also offers plenty of inspiration.

SP: How has online retail changed the scope and experience of JADE couture?

M&K: It has opened us up to a wide spectrum of brides not only from all parts of India, but across the globe too. Our audience can now shop from us at any point, no matter where in the world they are. In a way, it has brought the brand closer to its audience.

SP: When did you first realize you wanted to pursue a career in fashion design?

M&K: I think it was always there in me! I have always been passionate about design, arts and crafts. But the idea first blossomed during my time at Central St. Martin’s. And the idea became a goal and a full-blown passion in my time working with these iconic international couture houses.

SP: If you could go back and tell yourself one thing at the beginning of your career what would it be?

M&K: I would say, be patient, be authentic, and be true to your vision and your craft. It will pay off!

SP: How has the current pandemic affected your work?

M&K: The sentiments for the luxury market are low. But people will find value eventually in buying products of high quality and curated experiences. Ours is not a mass-produced product. We do limited handcrafted pieces, with a high focus on quality over quantity. And I think the consumer is more mindful, and wants to buy pieces that are high on quality, versatile, personalised and more classic. So although times are challenging, there’s a silver lining for us that we’ll transition back relatively easily.

SP: What’s your vision for the future?

M&K: Our focus is on strengthening our ecommerce presence, by leveraging technology to make luxury and couture effortlessly available to women across the globe. We’re constantly innovating to recreate the unique, immersive and luxurious experience of our store online as well.

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