As the Lakme Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI came to close, we saw India’s headlining designers showcase endearing collections. Floral Motifs are still in favour as designers keep using them to beautify their creations. Three-dimensional embroidery, out of the box detailing using cording techniques, cut-out work, asymmetrical drapes and intricate appliqué work were extensively used by designers in varying form to add character to their collections. Prints were an omnipresent story too, especially for summer collections.
The First Order by Namrata Joshipura
Namrata Joshipura’s ‘The First Order’ collection was all about sparkle and shine, comprising ensembles apt for evening wear. Jumpsuits, bodysuits and beautifully draped dresses in shiny blue, green, black, purple and pristine white were amazing on the ramp.
Gowns with angel sleeves cinched at the waist with a keyhole were stunning and so were the off-shoulder corsets with matching trousers. Cropped jackets and blazers added to the variety in style. A white bodysuit with a white textured cropped jacket looked like something from the future.
Namrata remarked, “The collection represents knowledge in artificial intelligence, reflecting the simplest and most fundamental level of organisation or experience. Through ‘The First Order’, I wanted to create an immersive experience that celebrates the beauty and sophistication of modern design while also looking towards the future.”
Dark Romanticism by Rina Dhaka
Rina Dhaka’s collection was sombre and gothic to an extent, and true to its name, ‘Dark Romanticism’. Rina used frayed fabric for tonal appliqué work to create an aged look and a vintage feel .There was interesting appliqué work, cording details and some crochet work that enhanced the stark look of the collection.
The hues were mostly dark with burgundy, gunmetal and pewter thrown in. Frayed edges on bralettes and distressed detailing on ruched skirts were thought out well. Other eye-catching ensembles were appliquéd capes, peplum jackets, heavily textured bustiers and fitted, panelled long skirts. The ensembles from the collection will definitely stand out in a crowd.
Rina Dhaka stated, “This collection is the integration of a lot of our work references from the past reflecting our journey, and yet reflect a larger storyline. Dark romanticism comes from the never giving up spirit amidst all the chaos.”
Thanjavur by Monisha Jaising
Monisha Jaising showcased a hybrid collection that was part Luxury Pret and part Couture. The show ‘Thanjavur’ was in association with a jewellery brand and hence we saw a seamless blend of Chola era inspired jewellery in her Couture creations. It was all about a tropical island wedding where resort wear met jewellery and couture.
The collection was all about opulence. Whether it was the embellished gowns with plunging necklines, crystal studded tops and embellished pant-suits, bling was omnipresent. Brocade pants with short kurtis with décolletage necklines, flared sharara style pants with gold patchwork paired with sheer floral appliquéd kurtis and sarees with crystal embroidered borders were beautiful for those scouting what to wear at a wedding.
Casa del Fiori by Ranna Gill
Ranna Gill’s ‘Casa del Fiori’ collection was a vibrant one where floral prints bloomed on the runway. Prints have always been the strength of Gill’s design aesthetics. Ranna showcased printed maxi-skirts paired with blousons with ruffled sleeves, Cinderella dresses with dramatised sleeves, lurex wrap-dresses with floral capes and gowns with 3-D appliquéd flowers running down the length of it. A heavily gilded lurex jacket paired with sleeveless gown was dazzling and was befit to be a showstopper. Intricate ruffles, 3-D appliqué work and floral prints made Ranna Gill’s collection enviable on the runway.
Ranna said, “Flowers never fail to bring a smile to my face. They are full of life, love, and femininity. Each flower is unique in its colour, shape, and characteristics; much like every woman. Casa dei Fiori celebrates the gentle power of flowers through vibrant prints, embroideries, and elegant silhouettes.”
Unapologetically Me by Manish Malhotra
Manish Malhotra’s ‘Unapologetically Me’ collection brought the curtains down on the Lakme Fashion Week. The Grand Finale show was all about pomp and show, and Malhotra’s collection was about women owning up to the tags and prejudices associated with them by a patriarchal society. He showcased his Diffusion line made out of bold geometric prints, slogans were printed on jackets and prevailed across the collection. Oversized jackets with an androgynous feel, asymmetrical draped dresses, dramatic sheer gowns and soft duster coats over printed dresses were exquisitely tailored and presented an edgy collection from the House of Manish Malhotra.
He summed up his collection, “…it invests in our signature bling, bold and beautiful to be more unapologetically you. The stylish duo and our showstoppers Ananya Pandya and Aditya Roy Kapoor join the Diffuse Tribe this year as they perfectly epitomise the generational values of tomorrow.”
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: Manish Malhotra, Namrata Joshipura, Rina Dhaka, Monisha Jaising and Ranna Gill.
Find out more about the collection:
https://www.instagram.com/lakmefashionwk/
https://manishmalhotra.in/product-category/diffuse/
