It was in 2017 when we witnessed the last couture collection from Meera and Muzaffar Ali’s House of Kotwara. It’s almost half-a-decade now and a lot has evolved in the House of Kotwara. Sama Ali, the daughter of Meera and Muzaffar joined the fashion house in the year 2014 and is presently the label’s creative director.
Sama is a trained fashion designer from the London College of Fashion and grew-up amidst fashion, paintings and music of Muzaffar Ali and the royal regales of the Royalty of Awadh, and this new couture collection is essentially a bridal wear line. Commenting on the new collection from the House of Kotwara, Sama Ali states, “This collection is an evolving exploration. It has been guided by my legacy and experiences from my childhood in the rose Gardens of Kotwara, and the wild blooms at our home in Delhi, to the Kews in London from my university.”
Fall 2022 Bridal Couture – ‘Dilam’ from the House of Kotwara is already creating a lot of buzz with several brides in the waiting, and will be showcased at the new atelier cum studio at House of Kotwara in Gurugram. Their signature style is dipped in the regal charm of Awadh, and in Ali’s penchant for subdued glamour and eternal elegance.
‘Dilam’, the Bridal Couture 2022 collection is the epitome of ‘slow fashion’. Over our conversation, Sama spoke about lehengas that almost took a year to be made. She believes strongly in creating designs that can be worn on multiple occasions and passed down to generations as heirlooms. The philosophy was visible on the fabric used and the timelessness of the styles and silhouettes.
Sama Ali has kept the traditional elements of Indian wedding wear intact but she’s simultaneously tweaked the silhouettes to add some contemporary nuances. The ghararas, shararas, lehengas and sarees have been stitched out of Banarasi net, organza, georgettes, brocade and rich velvets. The embroidery work is strikingly elaborate. The ensemble is embroidered with flowers and intertwining vines all over. The vines are intricately appliquéd with beads and sequins. The collection has contemporary tweaks like lehengas with flowing trails, cholis with veils, and structured blouses with ornate shoulders really enhance the silhouette. The shararas are exotic with extra flare and the kalidar lehengas alongside the Chogas and Peshwags are typical of Awadhi sensibilities. Scalloped dupattas, fine Zardosi work, aari embroidery and classic Chikankari embellishment makes you swoon over the collection.
For the groom, Sama Ali has moved away from Sherwanis and bandhgalas to traditional Angarkhas. Voluminous angarkha jackets with jewelled trimmings over A-line under-shirts and kurtas looked dapper and were inherently tasteful. The collection also has interesting hues. A grey lehenga looks out of the ordinary amidst stunning pink and ivory ones, and so do the Anarkali numbers in pistachio green, salmon pink and ivory. Men’s Angarkha in ivory and chocolate are likewise quintessential of the royalty that the collection embraces and essentialises.
This collection is a revival of Meera and Muzaffar Ali’s legacy. Ali highlights the omnipresent art and aesthetic these days, however, Meera is hands-on with Sama Ali, the label’s creative director, and brings forth a flavour of culture and elegance that is like no other.
Text by Jaydeep Ghosh
Image Courtesy: House of Kotwara
Find more about the Collection:
https://www.houseofkotwara.com/
https://www.instagram.com/houseofkotwara/?hl=en
